The Palio (Italy, 1987)

Pre-internet, we never planned trips in advance. As Gérard was loading our suitcases into the trunk of the car, I was reading the guide book. I read about the Palio* in Siena and got very excited. "Do you think we can make it to Siena by July 2nd?" "I don't know but we can try."

On July 2nd we were standing in the Campo, in the hot sun, with the other 30,000 spectators. For hours on end, we watched the sumptuous pageantry. Flag-throwers and dignitaries in medieval garb circled the piazza. A chariot was drawn by four white oxen. Then, the tension mounted. And finally... the WILD, breathtaking race!!!

From the Campo, 1987

I was overwhelmed by the intensity of the race and by the unbridled passion that the people of Siena have for the Palio. I promised myself that I would come back one day and see it again, but from a seat on a balcony. In 2011 I saw the Palio for the second time.

View of the Campo from my balcony, 2011

My balcony, 2011

* The Palio is a horse race held twice a year in Siena. Ten of the seventeen cantrade (city districts) compete in the race. The horses (and bareback jockeys) race three times around the Piazza del Campo. There are no rules and the race lasts no more than 90 seconds.

Comments

Lisa said…
The balcony is the place to be. How does one reserve one of those seats?
Rosie Glow said…
First, let me say that the Palio is in no way an event staged for tourists. So it’s not easy to get a balcony seat.

When I went back in 2011, I went with a company called Palio Tours. It was a 5-day package including hotel, tickets to trial races, a contrada dinner and a balcony seat the day of the race.

It was an amazing experience!
Anonymous said…
How cool! I'd never heard of these races. Love the bog--little bites of unusual local charm.
Rosie Glow said…
As much as I love the Palio, it is not without controversy. In modern times, this centuries-old tradition has been criticized by animal rights activists who voice concerns about cruelty to the horses. There’s a flip side to every coin.